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Join us on a fun day trip to York, ENGLAND.
Let’s discover why York has been the (official and
unofficial) “Capital of Northern England” for most of its 2,000 years of
history, and why it is one of the most interesting and most easily visited
cities in Britain.
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York packs 2,000 years of history into a very walkable square mile,
earning it the status as one of Britain's most visited cities.
And, with its central location on Britain's
high-speed rail network, York is within easy day-trip reach of parts of
Britain over 200 miles away, including London and Edinburgh.
With some 182,000
residents—about equal to Little Rock, Knoxville, or Ft. |
CROSSING THE RIVER OUSE INTO YORK'S OLD CITY |
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Lauderdale—modern York is a large, sprawling, English city. However,
York’s very walkable old town center, defined by its still
standing medieval walls, represents not more than about one-tenth of the
city of York.
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 OUNDED
BY THE ROMANS:
York began as a Roman garrison in the first century AD. Called
Eboracum, which may refer to the existence of yew trees in the place
between the rivers Ouse and Foss where the Romans built their fort. York
became the Roman capital of southern Britain, and witnessed visits by
Roman emperors. During a British military campaign in
306AD, Roman Emperor Constantius
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STATUE OF EMPEROR CONSTANTINE AT YORK |
Chlorus fell ill and died in York. His son, Constantine, was
crowned emperor in the city. Constantine (the Great) went on to
reunite the Roman Empire and create a newimperial capital city,
Constantinople (now Istanbul). A statue of Constantine stands by York
Minster, near the site where he was proclaimed emperor.
ROMAN YORK:
Visitors can visit a portion of the original Roman city
walls still standing (especially the Multiangular Tower in York’s
Museum Gardens), as well as a small museum at the site of York’s Roman
baths in the cellar of a York pub called The Roman Bath at 9 St.
Samson’s Square. (Ask the barman to show you
the Roman baths in the basement.) York’s two
miles of walls are the most of any British city. They include 5 main
gateways and 45 towers. Visitors can walk the walls and experience two
millennia of history in two hours (no admission charge).
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DARK AGES: SAXONS AND VIKINGS.
The Romans withdrew from Britain at the end of the 4th century, leaving
the island undefended. Waves of invasions swept across Britain over the
next 700 years, first from tribal groups of Saxons, Angles, and Jutes
from across the North Sea in what is now northern Germany and southern
Denmark. These groups intermarried and created the foundations of the
English language. They also brought Christianity to the region. York—Eoforwic
to the Anglo-Saxons—became a major British center of religion and
learning. The origins of York’s great Minster cathedral are
traceable to the 7th century during Anglo-Saxon period.
Eoforwic’s rise as an important regional center was bound to
draw the interest of marauding seafaring tribes from Scandinavia during
the height of the Viking period: the 9th through the 11th centuries.
First came the Danes under Ivar the Boneless in the latter half of the
9th century, and Saxon Eoforwic became Viking Jorvik. Within 100
years, however, Saxons from southwestern England chased the Danes. The
stability of the town was under constant threat over the next century as
Vikings from Norway frequently invaded the region and challenged its
Saxon protectors.
Finally Saxon King Harold repelled the Vikings at the
conclusive Battle of Stamford Bridge a few miles east of York
that ended the Viking invasions of Britain in
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September of 1066. Harold’s Saxons had no time to celebrate their
victory, however,
as word reached them that Duke
William of Normandy was leading his
own
invading army to England’s south coast. Within three weeks King
Harold was dead, the Saxons were defeated, the Dark Ages were over, and
William was the Conqueror.
JORVIK
CENTRE AND DIG ARCHEOLOGICAL SITE: Although little is left architecturally from these times,
visitors can see an excellent representation of 10th century York at the Jorvik Viking Centre in York’s Coppergate Shopping Centre near
Clifford’s tower (Admission: £8/adult, £6.60/senior/student,
£5.50/child; Open daily except 24-26DEC), and its companion DIG
archeological site in St. Saviour’s Church on St. Saviourgate
(Admission: £5.50/adult, £5/senior/student/child; Open daily except
24-26DEC. |
The Battle of Stamford Bridge,
by 19th
century Norwegian artist Wilhelm Wetlesen.
The Viking Age in Britain ended here, when
the Anglo-Saxon English under King Harold
II defeated a large invading force of Norse near York on September 25,
1066. The Anglo-
Saxon Age of Britain would last only three
weeks longer, as William the Conqueror invaded and defeated Harold's army
at Hastings in southern England. |
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 EDIEVAL
YORK: NORMANS, A YORK DYNASTY, TUDORS, AND CIVIL WAR.
William the Conqueror abided no rebellion. His Norman army
quashed resistance wherever it was encountered, and it was encountered
in York. The Normans punished York, then fortified it with two
castles to enforce England’s new reality. When rebels burned one to the
ground, it was replaced with a stronger one. When a storm wrecked that
one, an even stronger one was built in |
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CLIFFORD'S TOWER—YORK'S
MEDIEVAL CASTLE FROM THE 13TH CENTURY |
1270. It came to be known as Clifford’s Tower,
named after the guest of an especially grisly execution within its stone
walls. Today, the 13th century tower still stands, albeit without a
roof.
Visitors can climb the walls of
CLIFFORD'S TOWER (Careful! Open heights and narrow,
stone steps and ledges) and look over walled, medieval York. (Admission:
£3/adults, £1.50/children, £7.50/families, £2.30/seniors & students;
Open daily except 24-26DEC and 1JAN from 10AM).
England’s Norman conquerors built great churches in addition
to great castles. |
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The greatest of all of these was York Minster,
built atop the site of the Saxon church in
Norman style shortly after York was pacified in the late 11th
century. Subsequent fires, re-buildings, and expansions resulted in York
Minster becoming the largest gothic cathedral in northern Europe,
complete with all the architectural bells and whistles of the most
decorous of that ambitious medieval style. During the 16th century
English Reformation and the 17th century English Civil War much of the
elaborate decoration was stripped from the cathedral. A series of
fires—only some accidental—and structural failures
resulted in further changes in York Minster. The great church |
YORK
MINSTER IS NORTHERN EUROPE'S
LARGEST GOTHIC CATHEDRAL. IT
REMAINS A WORK IN PROGRESS. |
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Among the treasures of
York Minster is
the magnificently carved choir screen
with statues of the first 15 kings of
England from William the Conqueror
to Henry VI (1066 through 1471). |
remains something of a masterwork in progress.
YORK MINSTER:
No visit
to York should exclude time to explore York Minster (Admission:
£4-£9/adult, £3-£7.50/senior/student, £2-£3/child; Open to visitors
daily; Sunday visiting times early afternoon only).
If York’s greatest treasure, the Minster, is once again in its
glory, during its long history it was often in shambles. But, since its
Norman beginnings, York Minster has always been near the Shambles, among
England’s most visited streets, a scant quarter mile southeast
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great church. The Shambles shambles through the heart of York’s medieval
core, too narrow for automobile traffic even if allowed in old York.
Lining its footpaths are half-timbered erstwhile abattoirs with
overhanging upper stories blocking much of the daylight but formerly
facilitating the flinging of offal and awfuller into the narrow medieval
street below. Garda loo! The medieval butcheries that originally gave
the Shambles its name (“Fleshammels”: Saxon for “butchers’ street”) are
today upmarket shops, tearooms, and restaurants. |
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The Shambles is the best-known street in a warren of streets,
alleys, and Snickelways that make up medieval York.
During the day, this paved maze is full of shoppers, tourists, and
tradesmen, but few vehicles, as driving and parking inside York’s walls
is heavily restricted from 10:30AM until at least 4PM. The resulting
pedestrian zone—one of the UK’s largest—has made old York into something
of a medieval mall. During the evenings vehicle traffic is permitted
inside the walls, but parking is still heavily restricted on many
streets. Although most shops close after 6PM, York’s many restaurants
draw crowds in the evening.
Nighttime in York draws crowds to experience its spooky side,
as numerous guided “ghost walks” sneak through York’s darkened, narrow
Snickelways. York’s “ghost walks” were among Britain’s earliest
organized after dark city crawls, and helped start the craze that has
swept the |
A
York SNICKELWAY |
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Guided ghost walks
make for a scary 2
hours of entertainment
each evening in the warren of medieval
streets of old York. |
scariest haunts of most tourist
towns of size in the UK. Led by often costumed tour guides who are
usually more performance actors than oral historians, York’s “ghost
walks” are an especially fun for the whole family to learn something of
York’s past whilewalking off dinner. And, if a
guide dressed in Jack-the-Ripper chic tells tales designed to raise your
neck hair, so much the better.
York’s “ghost walks” became so popular that numerous small
tour companies offer them and a broad offering of daytime guided walks,
too. For a reasonable price (usually around £4-5/adult, £2-3/kids 6-15;
more for walks to places that require entrance fees, like York Minster),
guided walks now explore such divergent themes as Roman York, York’s
Snickelways, Richard III (York’s ultimate bad boy), the Historic Toilets
of York, York’s Jewish Heritage, Graveyards—Coffins—Crypts, Chocolates &
Sweets, The Walls, Historic Pubs & Inns, with more being introduced
every year. Expect each walk to last 1-2 hours, be attended by about a
dozen walkers, to begin and end at a specific location (usually a pub or
historic spot) in old York, and to operate regardless of the weather
(York is in England; it rains in England). Expect more fun than history,
and bring your camera. |
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 HE INDUSTRIAL
REVOLUTION:
During early medieval times York was still very much “the capital of the
North”. But the loss of Yorkshire’s importance as a wool-producing
region and devastations to York following the 15th century War of the
Roses and the military siege of York during the 17th century English
Civil War significantly lowered York’s prestige and power. During the
18th century, while the Industrial Revolution was being invented
elsewhere in England, Wales, and Scotland, York remained largely
unaffected.
But with the dawn of
the Railway Age in the 19th century, York
regained its former national prominence, as its halfway status
between London |
York's National Railway
Museum
is large enough to fit complete
historic train sets together under
one passenger terminal roof. |
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The National Railway
Museum
collection includes several
of Britain's greatest
railway achievements. |
and Scotland made it an ideal location for a major railway center. With
railway construction and repair shops and a great run-through mainline
rail station (1877), York became a regional capital once again during
the Victorian Age. Today York remains an important rail center on the
east coast mainline, serving many passenger trains daily in its historic
station. Passenger trains connect London and York at least every half
hour daily on a high-speed journey that requires only two hours.
Similarly, Edinburgh and York are served by at least two trains hourly
on a scenic, high-speed journey of just over 2.5 hours. |
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York’s historic
rail station lies just west of the old city walls and across the Ouse
River, and is a practical and convenient way for visitors to come to
York. Conveniently, the world’s largest—and probably the best—railway
museum, the National Railway Museum, is just 5 minutes walk
northwest of York Station. Its vast, important collection of railway
artifacts includes some of the most noteworthy locomotives ever built
and some lavishly appointed passenger cars for British royalty. Housed
in large, open sheds, the NRM ranks with England’s best museums. Its
displays appeal to the railroad enthusiast, of course, and also to
anyone with an interest in the Industrial Revolution and, especially,
the Railway Age of Victorian England. |
MICKELGATE BAR IS A MAIN
ENTRANCE TO YORK'S OLD CITY.
CARS AND TRUCKS ARE DISCOURAGED
FROM ENTERING OLD YORK.
Photo courtesy www.britainonview.com |
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The National Railway Museum is open daily (except
24-26DEC) from 10AM-6PM, and, thankfully, admission is free. Car Parking
at the NRM costs £7/day, a reasonable cost if you include a visit to the
museum as part of a full day in York. |
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GETTING TO YORK:
Thanks to Britain’s frequent, high-speed
train service,
you
can easily visit
York as a day trip
from
these
Home At First locations
in England & Scotland:
• From Home At First lodgings in
North Yorkshire:
drive 30
minutes east from Harrogate on the A59 to the
A1237 ring road on the outskirts of
York. Take the A1237
two exits northeast to the A19 roundabout. Watch
for the
signs pointing to the Rawcliffe Bar
Park & Ride car park just
south of the roundabout. Park at the Rawcliffe
Bar Park &
Ride lot (free parking!) and take
the Green Line (Number 2)
bus (operates every 10 minutes Mo-Sa from
7AM-7PM, last
bus back at 8PM; operates Sundays every
10 minutes from
10AM-5:45PM, last bus back at 6PM). Bus fare is
cheap:
£2/adult, with accompanied children under
16 years old
free. On the return journey, buses depart
from these key
York city stops: Museum Street, Station
Avenue, and the
National Railway Museum.
• From Home At First apartments in
London: take the
tube 15
minutes counter-clockwise on the Circle Line from
Tower Hill Underground
Station to Kings Cross rail station.
Trains depart Kings Cross at least
twice hourly for York,
traveling the 200 miles to York in two hours.
Travel during
off-peak (non-commuter) hours for the best round-trip
“Saver” or “Cheap Day Return” round-trip fares, currently
£75/adult,
with child/family discounts available. Or, order a
BritRail 4-Day
Flexi-Pass as part of your Home At First
London travel package. With it
you receive 4 days of your
choosing of unlimited rail travel during a
specified two-
month travel period. A round-trip ticket to York equals
about one-half the value of the pass, but takes up only
one of its four
days of validity.
• From Home At First lodgings in the
Scottish Borders:
drive 45
minutes to Berwick-upon-Tweed train station
(£3.50/day car parking).
Trains depart Berwick at least
hourly for York, traveling the 150 miles
to York in under two
hours. The best round-trip “Saver” or “Cheap Day
Return”
round-trip fares currently are £47.20/adult, with
child/family
discounts available.
• From Home At First apartments in
Edinburgh: take the
city bus
or a taxi to Edinburgh’s Waverley train station.
Trains depart Edinburgh
Waverley at least twice hourly for
York, traveling the 200 miles to York
in 2.5 hours. Travel
during off-peak (non-commuter) hours for the best
round-
trip “Saver” or “Cheap Day Return” round-trip fares,
currently
£66.50/adult, with child/family discounts
available. Or, order a
BritRail 4-Day Flexi-Pass as part of
your Home At First Edinburgh travel
package. With it you
receive 4 days of your choosing of unlimited rail
travel
during a specified two-month travel period. A round-trip
ticket
to York equals about one-half the value of the pass,
but takes up only
one of its four days of validity.
Note about rail fares:
all fares quoted are subject to change
without
notice. Special lower-cost promotional fares often exist: be
sure to ask
when purchasing tickets. Choosing certain
trains/times/routings can
save significantly over the cost of normal
tickets.
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YOUR DREAM TRIP BEGINS BY CONTACTING
a
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You can visit
fascinating places throughout Scotland, Wales, and
England with
Home At First. Our exclusive Activity Guides
tell you all about how to do it well.
Start planning your next visit
to Britain with a visit to Home At First.
HOME AT FIRST
offers travel to destinations
throughout
ENGLAND,
IRELAND,
SCOTLAND, and WALES.
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For complete information about travel
with
HOME AT FIRST
to Britain & Ireland, see: BRITISH ISLES.
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